The Reality of Getting Around the Amalfi Coast
My husband and I began our trip in Italy on the Amalfi Coast, which was every bit as beautiful as you can imagine. That said, there were some harsh realities about how to get around the Amalfi Coast that I truly did not understand until we lived through it. The coastline is absolutely stunning, but it is a very logistically challenging region and transportation is not intuitive for first-time visitors. This guide compiles all the things we learned on our trip to help you avoid the stress we endured so you can fully enjoy your time on the Amalfi Coast.
Understanding Amalfi Coast Geography (Why Transportation Is Complicated)
You have probably seen numerous beautiful images of the Amalfi Coastline. The stacked buildings and twinkling lights are gorgeous. Here is the thing – these cities are situated on a cliff. Meaning, the roads are very narrow and very curvy. The know-how needed to understand how to navigate these roads counts out renting a car immediately. The next challenge is there is no train system on the Amalfi Coast. For most of Italy, this is not an issue, but for the Amalfi Coast the primary form of transportation I’d recommend is not available. This leaves figuring out how to use the bus system and using the ferries.
Let’s just say we had some major silly goose moments on our trip. For example, we had to hike from the bottom of the cliff in Amalfi to the top of the cliff to get back to Ravello. Not smart or safe but we did not have a choice at the time. But I will make sure to walk you through everything so that you do not have to do that on your trip.
Main Ways to Get Around the Amalfi Coast
1. Ferries (Often the Most Scenic & Efficient Option)
We took the ferry twice during our trip. Once to Capri and the second to Positano. The ferries are a very relaxing and easy way to get between major cities on the Amalfi Coast. This is a great option to avoid traffic and enjoy a scenic view as you get from one place to another.
An important note is that the ferries run during a window from Spring to Early Fall with the broadest availability in the summer. We travelled to the Amalfi Coast during early October and took advantage of the ferries just before they shut down for the season in mid-October. Overall, ferries are a great way to get around the Amalfi Coast.
2. SITA Buses (The Budget Option—But Not Always Simple)
We ended up using the buses a couple times during our trip to the Amalfi Coast. Using the bus was handy, but they are not very intuitive. In order to get bus tickets, we had to ask around to see which shops sold the tickets. They used to be sold at the tobacco stores, but that practice stopped. In order to get tickets, the options were to see if there was someone selling tickets by the bus stop or look around to see which stores sold tickets. Amalfi was closest to Ravello, so Amalfi is where we hunted down tickets. Luckily, we were able to get some at a coffee shop.
The other reality to understand about how to use the buses on the Amalfi Coast is that the buses can be very crowded, especially during peak season. Even during the shoulder season, the buses were crowded and schedules were limited. This made it very competitive trying to get on the last bus of the day to get back to Ravello. Not only this, the buses are not always timely, so you have to be prepared to be flexible. Buses can be a cost-effective way to get around the Amalfi Coast, but it is important to be aware of these few cautions to ensure you can navigate them easily.
3. Taxis & Private Drivers (Convenience vs Cost)
We ended up having to take a taxi from the Salerno train station to Ravello and then hiring a private driver to get from Ravello back to the train station. This ended up being the simplest option, but it was not the cheapest.
This is true for taxis on the Amalfi Coast in general. Taxis can definitely be much faster and simpler than taking the buses, but it definitely comes at a cost. On a map, Amalfi and Ravello do not look that far away. However, since the driver has to wind their way up the cliff, it can take awhile and they charge a hefty price to get from point A to point B.
The driver we used to get from Ravello to the train station was Ravello Taxi and we had a great experience. Personally, for a return trip to the Amalfi Coast, if budget allows, I would opt to use a private driver to get around the Amalfi Coast for simplicity.
4. Driving Yourself (What You Need to Know Before Renting a Car)
I will admit I am a bit biased here because I avoid renting a car at all costs regardless of the trip. Personally, when I’m on vacation I don’t want to have to deal with a car. However, there are times that it may make sense. I would say that the Amalfi Coast is not one of those places where it would be helpful.
The roads are very narrow and winding, parking is limited, and there is heavy congestion, especially in the summer. Overall, I think between the buses, ferries, and taxis you’ll have plenty of options to get around.
Ferry vs Bus vs Car: Which Is Best?
Using the ferries are definitely the best way to get between the main cities. They are relatively fast, fun, frequent, and are less stressful than trying to figure out the bus system.
That said, the bus system is the runner-up method because some cities, like Ravello, cannot be reached by ferry. The best way to get from a non-port city is to take the bus to a port city so you can take the ferry.
Unless you’re hiring a private driver, cars are a last resort for both cost and safety reasons. If you have the budget to hire a private driver for the duration of your trip, I would do that and then mix in ferries where needed.
How to Travel Between Key Amalfi Coast Towns
Getting between key towns such as Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, and Salerno is accessible via ferries and buses. We found the ferries to be the easiest to use because we could book ahead of time on Direct Ferries, which was super easy.
If you choose to stay in Ravello like we did, I would recommend booking the bus from Ravello to Amalfi to make sure you have transportation arranged in advance. These book up very quickly, but once we discovered this on our trip it made the whole experience much easier. We used Amico Shuttle and it made travel between Ravello and Amalfi so much easier.
Common Transportation Mistakes First-Time Visitors Make
Our main mistakes we made on the Amalfi Coast were all related to transportation. Essentially, I really underestimated how easy it would be to get from Ravello to the rest of the Amalfi Coast. I thought we could walk from Ravello to Amalfi, for example, because it did not look that far on the map. However, this is the main trick of the Amalfi Coast – never underestimate how long or how challenging it may be to get from one place to another. You absolutely CAN get around the Amalfi Coast with ease, but you do have to anticipate using a mix of ferries and buses for budget options or splurging on taxis if you don’t mind paying a premium.
I also recommend focusing on one city a day. Keep your home base in one of the port cities and then do day trips to a few cities during your trip.
Seasonal Reality: Why Timing Changes Everything
The Amalfi Coast is a fairly seasonal location. During the winter, most places shut down for the season. Meaning, ferries do not run and options for shops, restaurants, and hotels are greatly reduced. On the other hand, in the summer it is peak season so everything is open, but it is very crowded. This is where there can be some strong advantages to visiting the Amalfi Coast during the shoulder seasons of spring and fall. You’ll be able to experience lovely weather and reduced crowds, making it a great time to visit. We travelled to the Amalfi Coast in October and it was absolutely perfect in terms of weather and crowds.
Explore my full guide on why October is the best time to visit Italy.
Best Time to Visit Italy: Why October is Perfect
Do You Need a Car on the Amalfi Coast?
No. In fact, I would highly recommend relying on public transport. Particularly if you’re staying in a major coastal city, such as Positano, Amalfi, or Sorrento, then the ferries are more than sufficient to get you from one city to the next.
Practical Tips for Stress-Free Travel
There are a few things I recommend to keep travel on the Amalfi Coast as stress free as possible.
Tip #1: Travel light
Take it from me, lugging your bags up uneven steps up the side of a cliff is very difficult. Leave the extras at home and bring just the essentials.
Check out my article packing for Italy in October for the full guide.
Packing for Italy in October: What to Wear & What You Actually Need
Tip #2: Be flexible with timing and expect delays
There are often transportation delays on the Amalfi Coast. Reduce stress by leaving plenty of buffer room between activities and just be prepared that things run a little slower on the Amalfi Coast.
Tip #3: Arrive early for buses
We discovered that there was limited space on the bus and the bus schedules are fairly limited as well. Especially on the last bus of the day, it is a mad dash to get onto the bus. I recommend arriving a bit early so that you can assert your spot in line.
Suggested 3–5 Day Amalfi Coast Transportation Strategy
We stayed in Ravello during our trip to the Amalfi Coast and I do not regret it at all. It was such a beautiful, quaint city situated at the top of the cliff which made it very romantic. That being said, staying there added a layer of logistical challenges that I had no idea about until we were actually there.
Therefore, for a first trip to the Amalfi Coast, I would recommend basing yourself in Sorrento or Positano so you are perfectly situated to take ferries and buses as needed.
I would also reserve a private transfer for arrival and departure to reduce any logistical burden.
Final Thoughts: Embracing the Pace of the Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast is so scenic and beautiful and absolutely worth visiting. The most important thing to remember is that transportation can be a challenge so just be prepared to be flexible and embrace a bit of the chaos. It can feel a bit overwhelming to navigate the Amalfi Coast, but the good news is if you book a ferry and private transport in advance and then tackle the bus system, you will be all set for your trip.
FAQs
Can you get around Amalfi Coast without a car?
Yes, absolutely. I highly recommend leveraging a mix of taxis, buses, and ferries to get around.
What is the best way to travel between Amalfi Coast towns?
My favorite form of transportation on the Amalfi Coast were the ferries. They are scenic, easy to use, and are fairly direct between the major cities.
Are there trains on the Amalfi Coast?
No, there are not. However, buses, ferries, and taxis are available.
Is it easy to use buses in Amalfi Coast?
Somewhat. They are not as easy to use as trains in other parts of Italy, but they are still possible to use once you know the tips and tricks from this article.
How do ferries work in Amalfi Coast?
I was able to book ferries online via DirectFerries ahead of time. I received my tickets in advance and there were clear instructions on booking and where and when to board.
